Our video library can help customers who want to install vinyl horse fence, PVC fences and more. While our main focus now is the delivery of high quality plastic fencing, we are here to assist with installation questions, as well.

Vinyl Fence Installation Videos

White Vinyl Install of Horse Fence: Part 1

Val: Today we’re here with Richard Fish from FenceSupplyOnline.com. Richard has sold and installed fence since 1993. Now, he offers us his shortcuts from an installer’s perspective to help the non-professional build a great project. So, what do we have here today, Richard?

Richard: This is one of the most popular items in the fence business today. This is the post and rail system. This is actually a three rail white vinyl post and rail fence. We got the in-post back behind us, and this is our starting post and we’re going to show everyone how we install all the posts, all the rails and a gate for this stretch of fence.

Val: Let’s get started.

Richard: This is our first post. The other one was our in-post. Now we’ve tied a slipknot right here and we’re going to go to the other post, making sure that the grass and the dirt doesn’t hit our string and mark all of our posts down through the center of this line.

And now at this end, I’ll also tie a slipknot to the center of the post, pulling it extra tight, so that the wind doesn’t blow the string, so that the grass doesn’t lay on the string and then it fits perfectly dead center in the post. Once we’ve got our string tight and pulled down through the center, we want to give it a little thump, make sure no grass is on it, make sure no debris is hitting it and make sure it’s clear of all the dirt so that we can get everything cleared out of the way and get a true straight line.

We’re going to use just a standard 100 foot reel tape measure and a screwdriver. Most all of these outdoor tapes have a spot for something, a stake, a screwdriver or something to hold it down. We’re going to put this right here in the center of the post, so that is the middle of the rail is going to come to the middle of this post. Now, we just drag this out to the other post. Since now we have our string-line and out tape measure side by side, now we know exactly where we need to put our fence post. We just reach down, pick up the tape measure, go over to the string, spray directly straight down underneath the string and mark it at intervals of 8 foot. Now 16 and 24. Just pull the slack line of your slipknot and it comes off automatically. Now, you can reuse your string all over again, because you tied a slipknot and not something you’ve got to keep cutting and putting knots in your line. Because if you keep putting knots in your line, sooner or later it will either break or it won’t be as straight as you wish.

Before you’re ready to dig, you should have already contacted your local utility marking contractor. That’s someone who works for the utility companies, comes in and makes sure that under your fence line, there are no power lines, water lines, gas lines, pipe lines, any kind of lines whatsoever. That will make sure that your dig goes safely, smoothly and nobody gets hurt.

Val: Well Richard, now that we’ve dug the holes and set the posts, what do we do next?

Richard: Well, now we’ve got to set the post with concrete. As you remember, earlier we set the string in the middle of the post to set the middle of the holes. Now we’re going to put the string on the outside of the post to get us a straight line. We’ll get the straight line. We’ll set them on 8 foot centers, set them in concrete and we’re ready to go.

Val: So Richard, how are you tying that slipknot?

Richard: Well, the best I can remember way back in the Boy Scout days, you go under with your slack rope, go over the top and make kind of a loop with this middle one here. Then pull it back part of the way through that loop and pull it tight, so you’ve got this little pigtail sticking out right there. You hold that loop tight and then, as you pull it tight, it pulls just right up against that post and it won’t let go, until you pull this little pigtail and it all disappears. Magicians use this a lot. In their rope tricks, you’ll see a lot of the magicians use this same slipknot.

Val: How do we know we’re on 8 foot centers?

Richard: Good question. What we do is we hang the tape in the front lip of that post, the first post, and come to the front lip of this post here. That’s the same thing as 8 foot center to center. Front of that one, to the front of this one is 8 foot center to center.

Val: Well how do we know it’s the right height?

Richard: Well, that’s an even better question. We’ll handle that later but the main thing is looking at our levels, are we level?

Val: Yeah.

Richard: Great. If we’re level and we’re on 8 foot centers, we’re ready to go.

Val: Well, okay, okay.

Richard: Val, let’s trade sides. Okay, Val. Hold it here. Watch your levels. Watch that one and this one here. Now, put the toe of your boot against the bottom of the post, just so when the concrete goes in, it doesn’t move our post all over the place. Got it?

Val: Okay. Got it.

Richard: Just kind of lock your arms and lock your toes.

Val: Okay.

Richard: I’ll just dump in the concrete. Now, we’ll take this shovel, sharpshooter spade shovel, and we’ll tamp it down to get the air bubbles out of the concrete.

Val: Okay.

Richard: We’ll just go back and forth around each side lightly and use it to get the air bubbles out.

Val: Well Richard, what about the water?

Richard: Ancient fence builder’s secret. We’re going to talk about water a long ways from now but right now, we just need to put the dry concrete in the hole, then we’ll come back and talk about water.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Still level? Great. Looks great. Let’s go do the next one.

Val: Okay. What are these little things? Is this a locking mechanism?

Richard: Good question. Yes, this has pretty much become the industry standard in the locking mechanism for the white vinyl fence. This is called a notch and it’s made by a notcher. Each side of this rail has notches on it. As it goes into this routed hole, it’s so tight and it’s such a firm grasp on it that it can’t come back out. The only way it can come back out is if these are ripped out. And the only way they’re going to get ripped out is if it exceeds about 1200 pounds bursting strength. In other words, the horse is running through the fence.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Okay, Val. I’m going to start by threading it through this middle post. I’m going to get it lined up for this first hole. I can see this one, but tell me where I need to be on that second hole. So, here we go. Hang on to that post.

Val: Okay.

Richard: All right. Now what do I need to do to come through that center?

Val: Lean it down. There you go.

Richard: Okay. Now, stand to the side.

Val: Okay.
Richard: And let me push it all the way down to this post. Uh oh. Now what are you going to do?

Val: I have no idea.

Richard: Well, we’re going to lift this post up. Because we put it in dry concrete, now we can still move the post. Now, we still have room to move.

Val: Okay.

Richard: We pick it up and start it in there. Perfect. That will work. Now, let’s go put in this end. Perfect. Got one in.

Val: All right.

Richard: You ready for the next one?

Val: Yeah.

Richard: Great. There we go.

Val: Richard, this last gap is 94 inches and our rails are 16 feet. What do we do?

Richard: That’s okay. We’ll just take one of our 16 foot rails, cut it down with a cordless SKILSAW and renotch it so we can use it here.

Val: Well let’s get to it.

Richard: Perfect. Now we’re ready to install.

Val: Okay.

White Vinyl Install of Horse Fence: Part 2

Val: Okay, now what?

Richard: Now, just like we did with the long rails, we do with the short rails. We’ll put it into the open-end to our right, pop it through, pop it in, just pop the back of the post. There you go, and pop it in on this side. Great.

Val: Well, okay.

Richard: Now, hand me one of those and we’ll do it again two more times. Thanks so much. Now, hold your post, pop it in, pop your post. There you go. Pop it in from this side and . . .

Val: And one more.

Richard: One more.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Pop it in, and pop it in. Great. See, once again, with the dry concrete, we’re able to adjust the rails, adjust the posts as we need. Now we can finish lining it out, making sure the tops and all the posts are level, come back. It looks like it’s about to rain anyway so we can put a couple of gallons of water on it or wait for a small rain shower, and these posts will set up just fine because the concrete will only take as much water as it needs to set up. No more, no less. Great. Ready to talk about gates?

Val: Yeah, let’s talk about gates, Richard.

Richard: Fantastic.

Val: Okay, Richard. What are these?

Richard: This is all the gate hardware that comes with every gate we sell.

Val: Okay.

Richard: First off, we have the gate female side. This goes around the 2×2 square tubing, comes with the carriage bolt and the nut, fits onto the J-Bolt that goes through your post.

Val: Okay

Richard: Goes through it just like so, goes through your post. Your gate fits on here. You adjust your height of your gate, tighten it up, ready to go.

Val: Okay

Richard: This is the gate latch. This is from Uni-Latch. This is an exclusively buy from Uni-Latch. It’s a spring-loaded plunger. It’s very unique to the horse industry, and it’s a very heavy-duty . . . Look at the size of that plunger. It’s as big as the hinge on the J-Bolt. It’s extra-long so you can adjust it. If you missed your gate opening, you can use this extra to make up that gap.

Val: Oh, well that’s good.

Richard: The biggest part of a fence is the gate. That’s the most important, most crucial part and the latch on that gate really means a lot. I spend $20 for that latch alone and it is darn well worth it.

Val: I can see that.

Richard: Also, we have the plugs for the top of the gate. These plugs just cap the gate so the water doesn’t get into the gate. Now, would you like to take a look at the gate?

Val: Absolutely.

Richard: Well good, let’s take a look.

Val: Richard, this isn’t a standard white vinyl gate.

Richard: Correct. Remember I told you we did that 21 miles of fence in the past 14 years? We found that the white vinyl gate was the weakest link in the white vinyl fence. An otherwise excellent product had this one little piece that fell apart within six months to a year. The gates that were made out of the white vinyl fence were put together with aluminum rivets. Well the aluminum rivets wear out after a time and make a bigger hole and the gate falls, literally falls apart within six months to a year. There’s no way to back them up and there’s no warranty on the gates. There’s obviously a warranty on the fence, but never a warranty on the gates. So we decided, let’s make a steel gate that matches the fence exactly. It’s double powder-coated white. I have these custom made, inch and a half by five and a half C-channels welded to 2×2 steel outposts out here. Rust can happen but very rarely because this is automotive-grade finish. You’ll feel that. Does that feel familiar?

Val: Yeah, it feels like the hood of my car.

Richard: It’s exactly the same product. It’s painted on here as it’s painted on automobiles.

Val: Oh, wow.

Richard: So, it’s an automotive-grade finish.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Gates get a lot of wear and tear and abuse. The white vinyl gates require stiffeners, require extra bolting and extra hardware. We have none of that. We have just that simple hardware kit we showed you earlier and then we’re ready to go. Now, they are perfectly sealed and no water can get into the top of that gate.

Val: Great.

Richard: It matches exactly. Now, let’s go drill the holes on the hinge post and I’ll show you how we do a hinge post.

Val: Okay. Richard, what did you mark this here for?

Richard: These are the center holes for the J-Bolts that are going to go through this. We’re going to fill this full of concrete and rebar. The J-Bolt’s going to go through here and the gate is going to hang on this post.

Val: Okay

Richard: This post is going to be solid concrete, around it and through it. Here we go. Now, the big key is holding your drill level as you go through because you don’t want to go through at an angle. Did it make a hole?

Val: Yep, looks great.

Richard: Take your J-Bolt. I’ll take mine. Take the nut off and one washer.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Then run this one all the way up to the front.

Val: Okay.

Richard: To the J-Bolt itself. All right. Now, place it through the post.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Put your pin and just barely start it on the other side. Go ahead and run it up to where it’s fairly snug.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Perfect. In the top of this post, I said we’re going to use half inch rebar.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Six foot sticks. We’re going to put about, depending on your gate, we’re going to put two to four and maybe as many as six half inch sticks of rebar down through here and we’re going to cup and pout concrete down this post.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Now, concrete will come out these little crevices and these corners and it will leak everywhere.

Val: Okay.

Richard: You’ll call me up and you’ll be mad at me but the finish of this is so smooth. You feel how that . . . It’s almost like glass, isn’t it?

Val: Uh huh

Richard: Nothing sticks to this. Concrete will not stick to this. You can wash it off now, come back later and tap it with that rubber mallet and it will all just chip and flake off. Concrete won’t stick to it so if it looks horrible, don’t worry. The main thing is, you want to put some rebar in here. Fill this post with about a bag and a half of concrete, about a bag and a half two bags around it in the hole and then let it sit for about four days to make sure all that concrete is perfectly cured.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Then you’re ready to hang your gate. You want to see what it looks like when it’s hung?

Val: Yeah, let’s do it.

Richard: Great.

Val: Wow, Richard. This looks great and it’s so light and easy to swing open.

Richard: That was our whole point of building it like this, was to make it easy to install and make it extremely durable. I don’t want to get the phone call “Hey, I love the fence, but your gate’s terrible.”

Val: Yeah. All right Richard, we’ve got the fence done. We’ve got the concrete set. Now how do we put the caps on?

Richard: Easy one. Take a standard pyramid horse cap, 5×5 cap, and we’ll take a standard PVC glue, just the regular clear PVC glue with the small dauber and just trace around the inside of the cap, put it over the top and it just snaps into place. Like so, snaps, done. Try it yourself.

Val: Okay. It is easy.

Richard: That’s all there is to it. Now, you’re completely done. Now if any of these do come off, all you have to do is re-glue it and put it back on there if one would happen to come off. Sometimes horses will pick them off but very rarely.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Try this next one.

Val: Okay.

Richard. There you go, all there is to it. Now your fence is done.

Val: Great.

Richard: Congratulations.

Val: Thank you, sir. Want to see a particular product or company featured here at BeyondtheBricks.com? Then contact us at the email below. We’re always looking for great companies to help folks make the great outdoors greater.

Tan Vinyl

Color Fence Options

Welcome to Fence Supply Online’s new product showcase of HDPE, high density, polyethylene, plastic fencing. We have a wide variety of colors in this product as compared to PVC that only comes in tan, white, and gray, you can see the multitude of colors you can get from HDPE plastics. There’s a couple of other things you can get out of HDPE such as this round tubing rail. This round tubing rail comes from EquiSafe. It’s a round tubing fence with a round tubing post, that has an embedded stainless steel electric fence embedded into the fence. So there’s nothing else to add to it, your fence comes ready to hang with an electric fence already attached to it to keep them from cribbing, keep them from pushing on the fence.

This product is from Derby Fence, Derby Fence is an inch and a half, five and a half, ribbed rail just like the PVC, but it comes in this multitude of colors. It has these heavy duty metal locking tabs that pop out inside the collar of the post, and can also be notched just like the PVC.

To find out more, call Terry or myself at 1-800-579-8045, or email us sales@fencesupplyonline.com. Thanks.

Vinyl Privacy Install Video

Welcome to Fence Supply Online’s install video for the white vinyl privacy. Many of you have requested a video just for this product. There are many ways to install it. I will show you my favorite way to install it and the way that, well, I installed over seven to ten thousand feet in this product. I want to also acknowledge as far as post setting, look to your previous videos on the three rail vinyl fence install. Just look at how the posts are set and use that in this product also.

The white vinyl fence comes with, of course, post, a top rail, a bottom rail, pickets, tongue and groove that interlock into each other, a U channel, and a metal insert strip that goes inside here on the bottom for support. What I have always done, it makes a lot of sense to me, install your far post. Like, if you had just one section, your far post, put it in the ground. Your first post will also be in the ground, but we’re going to start building from the far post and build back. Every time we start at the far post and build back to the first post. This gives us more room inside that post, and it’s easier to do, I promise.

First thing, put your top and bottom rails in your post and start loading pickets with your U channel on the very first one we have right here. Simply drive them on, then put your slip cover U channel over the end. The very last thing you do is insert the metal support rod or U channel in through the bottom of the rail. It just gives it a little extra support so it doesn’t sag, doesn’t have any, and adds a little more strength on the wind loads. Once you’ve done that, have a person holding on the top, a person holding on the bottom, and we’re going to set it inside the other post. Start it on the bottom rail. Get it just started inside the post. Then, have your partner help you get it inside the top post. You’ll hear them click, and they’ll both slide all the way together.

Now your fence is completely together. You’re ready for your next section. Your fence is done. It won’t chip, fade, peel. It’s available in the tan as well as the white. It’s going to give you a lifetime of enjoyment.

I hope this helped. If you have any questions, call (800) 579-8045 extension 1 for Terry, extension 3 for me, Richard. I’ve installed plenty of this, so I can help you through just about any situation you’ve got. Thank you so much. Have a great day.

Installing the Tongue and Groove Boards on a

Vinyl Privacy Install

Tab Master Rail Tool

Fence Armor

FAQ White Vinyl Fence

How to Measure a Vinyl Post to get the perfect cap.

Wood Fence Installation Videos

Split Rail Wood

Welcome to Fence Supply Online’s new product showcase. Today, we are showcasing some of our new wood products. My favorite thing about the wood group is that you pretty much have everything you need in your home or shop to build this fence. This video will address split rail.

This product comes in two and three rail versions. Posts are 6 inches wide by 2 and a half inches deep. The length varies depending on which style you buy. The rails have several unique features on them. The rail has both a beautiful round rail cut to one side and a split rail triangle on the other. You can put either style in or out whichever side you want to look at is the side you can put on your property, and the neighbors get whatever’s left.

Installation of this product is very similar to our white vinyl PVC install video. In fact, about 80% of that video is usable for this product as far as setting posts and even some in setting the rails. Let me show you right now how the rails go together with this post. Each rail has a tapered small end, and then we have on the other end a large taper. The rails are available in 9 and 11 foot lengths. I highly recommend the 9 foot lengths because the 11 foot you can get some warpage issues.

Simply, your post is installed in the ground, dry set like I always recommend on fence products. You slide the small end through the post as far as you can, then you have room to go into the post on the other end. How do they lock together? This end, the big end, goes in here, and voilà, you have three plus inches of rail on either side of the post. You can drill a lag screw through here to tie these two together and make sure they never vibrate out. Take a hammer and drive them in. It doesn’t matter. It’s a very forgiving fence and a very easy fence to build. That’s how the rails go into this fence.

I need to talk about corners and ends. We do have corners and end posts for this fence, but I have found a little bit easier way to deal with those issues. The line post can go right up against a timber, a 6 by 6 treated post. Let’s pretend this is your corner right here. You’re going to come to here with the fence, and you’re going to go towards you with the fence. You have a 6 by 6 post here. You bolt this right up against your 6 by 6. Bring your fence rails into here. Then, bolt another line post on the other side of the 6 by 6. Run your line into there. Build your fence on from there.

The thing with using a 6 by 6, it’s extremely heavy duty for animals that push on the fence, runaway lawn mowers that hit the corner, that kind of thing. It’s a very heavy duty corner post for the product. Also, end posts, if you have a 6 by 6 here and you have this mounted to it with all your fence coming to it, now you can hang a gate. You can hang a 20 foot gate easily off of a 6 by 6 in the ground concreted post. It would stop a Mack truck it’s so heavy. That’s my reason for using a 6 by 6, especially on the ends, because you can put so much more weight on it and make such a better gate.

For more information, please call Terry or myself. Terry is at (800) 579-8045, extension 1. I’m at extension 3. Thank you so much.

Round Rail Wood

Welcome to Fence Supply Online’s new product showcase. Today we’re continuing the showcase of our wood products. My favorite thing, as always, about the wood group is that most everyone watching this has the tools you need already in your home and shop to build this fence.

Today we’re going to talk about round rail. Round rail fence is also available in the two and three rail versions. The rails are four inches and then taper down to two inches. Obviously they’re not this short. This is a sample rail, but they’re all pressure-treated with the ACQ product, which is the industry standard for residential pressure treating of the lumber.

One of the things that makes our product special to anyone else, this is a truly turned piece of wood. What does that mean? That means we bring in a five-inch log and turn it down so it is perfectly the same shape beginning to end. There’s no humps, bumps. We don’t take just a four-inch tree and knock the bark off of it, which is a lot of wood that you buy. In fact, you’ll see some post at your local hardware or farm supply store still has pieces of bark on it. Those are just debarked. They still have knots and everything.

This is completely turned down to new wood, and that gives us a uniform every-product’s-the-same. I don’t have to worry about you having two or three bad ones in your batch because you’re getting a true turned, made-for-you product. It’s a fine, fine product. I have received many calls from you guys. I’m very glad to have this product in our stable now.

For more information call Terry or myself, 800-579-8045, extension 1 for sales, 3 for myself. The email is sales@fencesupplyonline.

Thanks so much, have a great day.

Ornamental Iron Fence Videos

Wrought Iron Fence from Fence Supply Online