Val: Okay, now what?
Richard: Now, just like we did with the long rails, we do with the short rails. We’ll put it into the open-end to our right, pop it through, pop it in, just pop the back of the post. There you go, and pop it in on this side. Great.
Val: Well, okay.
Richard: Now, hand me one of those and we’ll do it again two more times. Thanks so much. Now, hold your post, pop it in, pop your post. There you go. Pop it in from this side and . . .
Val: And one more.
Richard: One more.
Richard: Pop it in, and pop it in. Great. See, once again, with the dry concrete, we’re able to adjust the rails, adjust the posts as we need. Now we can finish lining it out, making sure the tops and all the posts are level, come back. It looks like it’s about to rain anyway so we can put a couple of gallons of water on it or wait for a small rain shower, and these posts will set up just fine because the concrete will only take as much water as it needs to set up. No more, no less. Great. Ready to talk about gates?
Val: Yeah, let’s talk about gates, Richard.
Val: Okay, Richard. What are these?
Richard: This is all the gate hardware that comes with every gate we sell.
Richard: First off, we have the gate female side. This goes around the 2×2 square tubing, comes with the carriage bolt and the nut, fits onto the J-Bolt that goes through your post.
Richard: Goes through it just like so, goes through your post. Your gate fits on here. You adjust your height of your gate, tighten it up, ready to go.
Richard: This is the gate latch. This is from Uni-Latch. This is an exclusively buy from Uni-Latch. It’s a spring-loaded plunger. It’s very unique to the horse industry, and it’s a very heavy-duty . . . Look at the size of that plunger. It’s as big as the hinge on the J-Bolt. It’s extra-long so you can adjust it. If you missed your gate opening, you can use this extra to make up that gap.
Val: Oh, well that’s good.
Richard: The biggest part of a fence is the gate. That’s the most important, most crucial part and the latch on that gate really means a lot. I spend $20 for that latch alone and it is darn well worth it.
Val: I can see that.
Richard: Also, we have the plugs for the top of the gate. These plugs just cap the gate so the water doesn’t get into the gate. Now, would you like to take a look at the gate?
Richard: Well good, let’s take a look.
Val: Richard, this isn’t a standard white vinyl gate.
Richard: Correct. Remember I told you we did that 21 miles of fence in the past 14 years? We found that the white vinyl gate was the weakest link in the white vinyl fence. An otherwise excellent product had this one little piece that fell apart within six months to a year. The gates that were made out of the white vinyl fence were put together with aluminum rivets. Well the aluminum rivets wear out after a time and make a bigger hole and the gate falls, literally falls apart within six months to a year. There’s no way to back them up and there’s no warranty on the gates. There’s obviously a warranty on the fence, but never a warranty on the gates. So we decided, let’s make a steel gate that matches the fence exactly. It’s double powder-coated white. I have these custom made, inch and a half by five and a half C-channels welded to 2×2 steel outposts out here. Rust can happen but very rarely because this is automotive-grade finish. You’ll feel that. Does that feel familiar?
Val: Yeah, it feels like the hood of my car.
Richard: It’s exactly the same product. It’s painted on here as it’s painted on automobiles.
Val: Oh, wow.
Richard: So, it’s an automotive-grade finish.
Richard: Gates get a lot of wear and tear and abuse. The white vinyl gates require stiffeners, require extra bolting and extra hardware. We have none of that. We have just that simple hardware kit we showed you earlier and then we’re ready to go. Now, they are perfectly sealed and no water can get into the top of that gate.
Richard: It matches exactly. Now, let’s go drill the holes on the hinge post and I’ll show you how we do a hinge post.
Val: Okay. Richard, what did you mark this here for?
Richard: These are the center holes for the J-Bolts that are going to go through this. We’re going to fill this full of concrete and rebar. The J-Bolt’s going to go through here and the gate is going to hang on this post.
Richard: This post is going to be solid concrete, around it and through it. Here we go. Now, the big key is holding your drill level as you go through because you don’t want to go through at an angle. Did it make a hole?
Val: Yep, looks great.
Richard: Take your J-Bolt. I’ll take mine. Take the nut off and one washer.
Richard: Then run this one all the way up to the front.
Richard: To the J-Bolt itself. All right. Now, place it through the post.
Richard: Put your pin and just barely start it on the other side. Go ahead and run it up to where it’s fairly snug.
Richard: Perfect. In the top of this post, I said we’re going to use half inch rebar.
Richard: Six foot sticks. We’re going to put about, depending on your gate, we’re going to put two to four and maybe as many as six half inch sticks of rebar down through here and we’re going to cup and pout concrete down this post.
Richard: Now, concrete will come out these little crevices and these corners and it will leak everywhere.
Richard: You’ll call me up and you’ll be mad at me but the finish of this is so smooth. You feel how that . . . It’s almost like glass, isn’t it?
Val: Uh huh
Richard: Nothing sticks to this. Concrete will not stick to this. You can wash it off now, come back later and tap it with that rubber mallet and it will all just chip and flake off. Concrete won’t stick to it so if it looks horrible, don’t worry. The main thing is, you want to put some rebar in here. Fill this post with about a bag and a half of concrete, about a bag and a half two bags around it in the hole and then let it sit for about four days to make sure all that concrete is perfectly cured.
Richard: Then you’re ready to hang your gate. You want to see what it looks like when it’s hung?
Val: Yeah, let’s do it.
Val: Wow, Richard. This looks great and it’s so light and easy to swing open.
Richard: That was our whole point of building it like this, was to make it easy to install and make it extremely durable. I don’t want to get the phone call “Hey, I love the fence, but your gate’s terrible.”
Val: Yeah. All right Richard, we’ve got the fence done. We’ve got the concrete set. Now how do we put the caps on?
Richard: Easy one. Take a standard pyramid horse cap, 5×5 cap, and we’ll take a standard PVC glue, just the regular clear PVC glue with the small dauber and just trace around the inside of the cap, put it over the top and it just snaps into place. Like so, snaps, done. Try it yourself.
Val: Okay. It is easy.
Richard: That’s all there is to it. Now, you’re completely done. Now if any of these do come off, all you have to do is re-glue it and put it back on there if one would happen to come off. Sometimes horses will pick them off but very rarely.
Richard: Try this next one.
Richard. There you go, all there is to it. Now your fence is done.
Val: Thank you, sir. Want to see a particular product or company featured here at BeyondtheBricks.com? Then contact us at the email below. We’re always looking for great companies to help folks make the great outdoors greater.