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Vinyl Ranch Rail Fences and More

Vinyl Ranch Rail Fences and More 2017-10-31T13:04:55+00:00

Vinyl 3 Rail and Vinyl 4 Rail Fences

Whether you just love the look of 3 or 4 rail ranch fencing or you need to enclose an agricultural property for the protection of the animals, we have the vinyl horse fence options you need. Whereas standard fencing often demands constant maintenance and upkeep, our PVC fencing leaves you free to enjoy. Our vinyl horse fence, meant for ranching use, comes in two, three, four and crossbuck styles. We also offer two primary colors for this type of Vinyl fencing – white or almond.

What makes our vinyl ranch rail superior to other products?

  • The quality – Our Vinyl fence is not just for ranch use. It is agricultural grade and you cannot find a higher quality product. This fencing is designed to stand up to the rigors of use and the weather. We even offer a 30-year lifetime limited warranty.
  • The specifications – Our vinyl horse fence features posts that are 5” by 5” extruded. The thickness is .150” routed to fit our customer’s specific needs. The rails are 1.5” by 5.5” by 16 feet extruded with double web construction. Their thickness is .090” with notches at both ends. The caps on our Vinyl fencing for agricultural use are external, pyramid style. We do offer internal caps for those who desire them. The 3 rail vinyl ranch fence has 11 inches between the rails. the 4 rail has 9 inches between the rails. We offer Custom routing for the Vinyl Ranch Rail fence to help match if you have an existing fence.
  • The durability – Vinyl horse fence is becoming preferred by many because of its beauty and lasting durability. To ensure our Vinyl fencing stands up to the test of time, we also construct it with 11 percent titanium oxide to inhibit UV exposure.
  • The ease of installation – While enclosing an entire ranch will take time, our vinyl horse fence is very easy to install. This means our customers can save hundreds, if not thousands, by tackling the job personally. We even offer the specialty tools and installation advice necessary to get the job done right.

This is an Ag quality product with a Lifetime Limited Warranty (30yrs)

White Vinyl Install of Horse Fence: Part 1

Val: Today we’re here with Richard Fish from FenceSupplyOnline.com. Richard has sold and installed fence since 1993. Now, he offers us his shortcuts from an installer’s perspective to help the non-professional build a great project. So, what do we have here today, Richard?

Richard: This is one of the most popular items in the fence business today. This is the post and rail system. This is actually a three rail white vinyl post and rail fence. We got the in-post back behind us, and this is our starting post and we’re going to show everyone how we install all the posts, all the rails and a gate for this stretch of fence.

Val: Let’s get started.

Richard: This is our first post. The other one was our in-post. Now we’ve tied a slipknot right here and we’re going to go to the other post, making sure that the grass and the dirt doesn’t hit our string and mark all of our posts down through the center of this line.

And now at this end, I’ll also tie a slipknot to the center of the post, pulling it extra tight, so that the wind doesn’t blow the string, so that the grass doesn’t lay on the string and then it fits perfectly dead center in the post. Once we’ve got our string tight and pulled down through the center, we want to give it a little thump, make sure no grass is on it, make sure no debris is hitting it and make sure it’s clear of all the dirt so that we can get everything cleared out of the way and get a true straight line.

We’re going to use just a standard 100 foot reel tape measure and a screwdriver. Most all of these outdoor tapes have a spot for something, a stake, a screwdriver or something to hold it down. We’re going to put this right here in the center of the post, so that is the middle of the rail is going to come to the middle of this post. Now, we just drag this out to the other post. Since now we have our string-line and out tape measure side by side, now we know exactly where we need to put our fence post. We just reach down, pick up the tape measure, go over to the string, spray directly straight down underneath the string and mark it at intervals of 8 foot. Now 16 and 24. Just pull the slack line of your slipknot and it comes off automatically. Now, you can reuse your string all over again, because you tied a slipknot and not something you’ve got to keep cutting and putting knots in your line. Because if you keep putting knots in your line, sooner or later it will either break or it won’t be as straight as you wish.

Before you’re ready to dig, you should have already contacted your local utility marking contractor. That’s someone who works for the utility companies, comes in and makes sure that under your fence line, there are no power lines, water lines, gas lines, pipe lines, any kind of lines whatsoever. That will make sure that your dig goes safely, smoothly and nobody gets hurt.

Val: Well Richard, now that we’ve dug the holes and set the posts, what do we do next?

Richard: Well, now we’ve got to set the post with concrete. As you remember, earlier we set the string in the middle of the post to set the middle of the holes. Now we’re going to put the string on the outside of the post to get us a straight line. We’ll get the straight line. We’ll set them on 8 foot centers, set them in concrete and we’re ready to go.

Val: So Richard, how are you tying that slipknot?

Richard: Well, the best I can remember way back in the Boy Scout days, you go under with your slack rope, go over the top and make kind of a loop with this middle one here. Then pull it back part of the way through that loop and pull it tight, so you’ve got this little pigtail sticking out right there. You hold that loop tight and then, as you pull it tight, it pulls just right up against that post and it won’t let go, until you pull this little pigtail and it all disappears. Magicians use this a lot. In their rope tricks, you’ll see a lot of the magicians use this same slipknot.

Val: How do we know we’re on 8 foot centers?

Richard: Good question. What we do is we hang the tape in the front lip of that post, the first post, and come to the front lip of this post here. That’s the same thing as 8 foot center to center. Front of that one, to the front of this one is 8 foot center to center.

Val: Well how do we know it’s the right height?

Richard: Well, that’s an even better question. We’ll handle that later but the main thing is looking at our levels, are we level?

Val: Yeah.

Richard: Great. If we’re level and we’re on 8 foot centers, we’re ready to go.

Val: Well, okay, okay.

Richard: Val, let’s trade sides. Okay, Val. Hold it here. Watch your levels. Watch that one and this one here. Now, put the toe of your boot against the bottom of the post, just so when the concrete goes in, it doesn’t move our post all over the place. Got it?

Val: Okay. Got it.

Richard: Just kind of lock your arms and lock your toes.

Val: Okay.

Richard: I’ll just dump in the concrete. Now, we’ll take this shovel, sharpshooter spade shovel, and we’ll tamp it down to get the air bubbles out of the concrete.

Val: Okay.

Richard: We’ll just go back and forth around each side lightly and use it to get the air bubbles out.

Val: Well Richard, what about the water?

Richard: Ancient fence builder’s secret. We’re going to talk about water a long ways from now but right now, we just need to put the dry concrete in the hole, then we’ll come back and talk about water.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Still level? Great. Looks great. Let’s go do the next one.

Val: Okay. What are these little things? Is this a locking mechanism?

Richard: Good question. Yes, this has pretty much become the industry standard in the locking mechanism for the white vinyl fence. This is called a notch and it’s made by a notcher. Each side of this rail has notches on it. As it goes into this routed hole, it’s so tight and it’s such a firm grasp on it that it can’t come back out. The only way it can come back out is if these are ripped out. And the only way they’re going to get ripped out is if it exceeds about 1200 pounds bursting strength. In other words, the horse is running through the fence.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Okay, Val. I’m going to start by threading it through this middle post. I’m going to get it lined up for this first hole. I can see this one, but tell me where I need to be on that second hole. So, here we go. Hang on to that post.

Val: Okay.

Richard: All right. Now what do I need to do to come through that center?

Val: Lean it down. There you go.

Richard: Okay. Now, stand to the side.

Val: Okay.
Richard: And let me push it all the way down to this post. Uh oh. Now what are you going to do?

Val: I have no idea.

Richard: Well, we’re going to lift this post up. Because we put it in dry concrete, now we can still move the post. Now, we still have room to move.

Val: Okay.

Richard: We pick it up and start it in there. Perfect. That will work. Now, let’s go put in this end. Perfect. Got one in.

Val: All right.

Richard: You ready for the next one?

Val: Yeah.

Richard: Great. There we go.

Val: Richard, this last gap is 94 inches and our rails are 16 feet. What do we do?

Richard: That’s okay. We’ll just take one of our 16 foot rails, cut it down with a cordless SKILSAW and renotch it so we can use it here.

Val: Well let’s get to it.

Richard: Perfect. Now we’re ready to install.

Val: Okay.

White Vinyl Install of Horse Fence: Part 2

Val: Okay, now what?

Richard: Now, just like we did with the long rails, we do with the short rails. We’ll put it into the open-end to our right, pop it through, pop it in, just pop the back of the post. There you go, and pop it in on this side. Great.

Val: Well, okay.

Richard: Now, hand me one of those and we’ll do it again two more times. Thanks so much. Now, hold your post, pop it in, pop your post. There you go. Pop it in from this side and . . .

Val: And one more.

Richard: One more.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Pop it in, and pop it in. Great. See, once again, with the dry concrete, we’re able to adjust the rails, adjust the posts as we need. Now we can finish lining it out, making sure the tops and all the posts are level, come back. It looks like it’s about to rain anyway so we can put a couple of gallons of water on it or wait for a small rain shower, and these posts will set up just fine because the concrete will only take as much water as it needs to set up. No more, no less. Great. Ready to talk about gates?

Val: Yeah, let’s talk about gates, Richard.

Richard: Fantastic.

Val: Okay, Richard. What are these?

Richard: This is all the gate hardware that comes with every gate we sell.

Val: Okay.

Richard: First off, we have the gate female side. This goes around the 2×2 square tubing, comes with the carriage bolt and the nut, fits onto the J-Bolt that goes through your post.

Val: Okay

Richard: Goes through it just like so, goes through your post. Your gate fits on here. You adjust your height of your gate, tighten it up, ready to go.

Val: Okay

Richard: This is the gate latch. This is from Uni-Latch. This is an exclusively buy from Uni-Latch. It’s a spring-loaded plunger. It’s very unique to the horse industry, and it’s a very heavy-duty . . . Look at the size of that plunger. It’s as big as the hinge on the J-Bolt. It’s extra-long so you can adjust it. If you missed your gate opening, you can use this extra to make up that gap.

Val: Oh, well that’s good.

Richard: The biggest part of a fence is the gate. That’s the most important, most crucial part and the latch on that gate really means a lot. I spend $20 for that latch alone and it is darn well worth it.

Val: I can see that.

Richard: Also, we have the plugs for the top of the gate. These plugs just cap the gate so the water doesn’t get into the gate. Now, would you like to take a look at the gate?

Val: Absolutely.

Richard: Well good, let’s take a look.

Val: Richard, this isn’t a standard white vinyl gate.

Richard: Correct. Remember I told you we did that 21 miles of fence in the past 14 years? We found that the white vinyl gate was the weakest link in the white vinyl fence. An otherwise excellent product had this one little piece that fell apart within six months to a year. The gates that were made out of the white vinyl fence were put together with aluminum rivets. Well the aluminum rivets wear out after a time and make a bigger hole and the gate falls, literally falls apart within six months to a year. There’s no way to back them up and there’s no warranty on the gates. There’s obviously a warranty on the fence, but never a warranty on the gates. So we decided, let’s make a steel gate that matches the fence exactly. It’s double powder-coated white. I have these custom made, inch and a half by five and a half C-channels welded to 2×2 steel outposts out here. Rust can happen but very rarely because this is automotive-grade finish. You’ll feel that. Does that feel familiar?

Val: Yeah, it feels like the hood of my car.

Richard: It’s exactly the same product. It’s painted on here as it’s painted on automobiles.

Val: Oh, wow.

Richard: So, it’s an automotive-grade finish.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Gates get a lot of wear and tear and abuse. The white vinyl gates require stiffeners, require extra bolting and extra hardware. We have none of that. We have just that simple hardware kit we showed you earlier and then we’re ready to go. Now, they are perfectly sealed and no water can get into the top of that gate.

Val: Great.

Richard: It matches exactly. Now, let’s go drill the holes on the hinge post and I’ll show you how we do a hinge post.

Val: Okay. Richard, what did you mark this here for?

Richard: These are the center holes for the J-Bolts that are going to go through this. We’re going to fill this full of concrete and rebar. The J-Bolt’s going to go through here and the gate is going to hang on this post.

Val: Okay

Richard: This post is going to be solid concrete, around it and through it. Here we go. Now, the big key is holding your drill level as you go through because you don’t want to go through at an angle. Did it make a hole?

Val: Yep, looks great.

Richard: Take your J-Bolt. I’ll take mine. Take the nut off and one washer.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Then run this one all the way up to the front.

Val: Okay.

Richard: To the J-Bolt itself. All right. Now, place it through the post.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Put your pin and just barely start it on the other side. Go ahead and run it up to where it’s fairly snug.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Perfect. In the top of this post, I said we’re going to use half inch rebar.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Six foot sticks. We’re going to put about, depending on your gate, we’re going to put two to four and maybe as many as six half inch sticks of rebar down through here and we’re going to cup and pout concrete down this post.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Now, concrete will come out these little crevices and these corners and it will leak everywhere.

Val: Okay.

Richard: You’ll call me up and you’ll be mad at me but the finish of this is so smooth. You feel how that . . . It’s almost like glass, isn’t it?

Val: Uh huh

Richard: Nothing sticks to this. Concrete will not stick to this. You can wash it off now, come back later and tap it with that rubber mallet and it will all just chip and flake off. Concrete won’t stick to it so if it looks horrible, don’t worry. The main thing is, you want to put some rebar in here. Fill this post with about a bag and a half of concrete, about a bag and a half two bags around it in the hole and then let it sit for about four days to make sure all that concrete is perfectly cured.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Then you’re ready to hang your gate. You want to see what it looks like when it’s hung?

Val: Yeah, let’s do it.

Richard: Great.

Val: Wow, Richard. This looks great and it’s so light and easy to swing open.

Richard: That was our whole point of building it like this, was to make it easy to install and make it extremely durable. I don’t want to get the phone call “Hey, I love the fence, but your gate’s terrible.”

Val: Yeah. All right Richard, we’ve got the fence done. We’ve got the concrete set. Now how do we put the caps on?

Richard: Easy one. Take a standard pyramid horse cap, 5×5 cap, and we’ll take a standard PVC glue, just the regular clear PVC glue with the small dauber and just trace around the inside of the cap, put it over the top and it just snaps into place. Like so, snaps, done. Try it yourself.

Val: Okay. It is easy.

Richard: That’s all there is to it. Now, you’re completely done. Now if any of these do come off, all you have to do is re-glue it and put it back on there if one would happen to come off. Sometimes horses will pick them off but very rarely.

Val: Okay.

Richard: Try this next one.

Val: Okay.

Richard. There you go, all there is to it. Now your fence is done.

Val: Great.

Richard: Congratulations.

Val: Thank you, sir. Want to see a particular product or company featured here at BeyondtheBricks.com? Then contact us at the email below. We’re always looking for great companies to help folks make the great outdoors greater.

Tan Vinyl

Color Fence Options

Welcome to Fence Supply Online’s new product showcase of HDPE, high density, polyethylene, plastic fencing. We have a wide variety of colors in this product as compared to PVC that only comes in tan, white, and gray, you can see the multitude of colors you can get from HDPE plastics. There’s a couple of other things you can get out of HDPE such as this round tubing rail. This round tubing rail comes from EquiSafe. It’s a round tubing fence with a round tubing post, that has an embedded stainless steel electric fence embedded into the fence. So there’s nothing else to add to it, your fence comes ready to hang with an electric fence already attached to it to keep them from cribbing, keep them from pushing on the fence.

This product is from Derby Fence, Derby Fence is an inch and a half, five and a half, ribbed rail just like the PVC, but it comes in this multitude of colors. It has these heavy duty metal locking tabs that pop out inside the collar of the post, and can also be notched just like the PVC.

To find out more, call Terry or myself at 1-800-579-8045, or email us sales@fencesupplyonline.com. Thanks.